A Taste of Denmark 
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| Peder Mønsted. forest.painting |
The town Sæby in the northeastern part of Jutland lies about 12 km south
of Frederikshavn and 50 km northeast of Aalborg. It lies at the
river-mouth in an idyllic nature looking like a painting from the Danish
Golden Age painters.in the late 1800s. Artists and authors were
gathering in the small town by the sea of Kattegat. The town was
originally a fishing village,.but it got its municipal rights in 1524
Sæby is today a hinterland town for a big part of the southeastern
Vendsyssel and an important tourist city , attracting
holiday-guests because of its bathing beaches and the old small-town
milieu. In the summer period many yachtsmen come , and the first they
see by entering the harbour is the modern landmark of the town Fruen fra
Havet (The Lady from the Sea) raised there in 2001. The other and
oldest landmark of Sæby is the church , Sct. Marie church, which was
once
a karmelit-kloster. The earliest sections of the church are from
the 1100s, while the other sections are from the 1400s and 1500s. Close
to the church is the old market square with the old town hall from 1750.
Sæby originally emerged at the mouth of Sæby river by the sea of Kattegat. Here was a natural
possibility for a harbor. Most of the old town lies south of the river.
West of the town lies the pretty Sæbygård forest in a very hilly
terrain. The river runs through the forest surrounded by steep slopes,
grown with beeches.
The Vikings were the first citizens in the small village by the mouth of
the river. Traces of wooden bulwark from the Viking period were found at the outernest river mouth. .
In the Middle Ages the town consisted of two divided town-societies.
By the sea was a fishing village, and a little church was built here in
1450. Inside, in the countryside, was a farmer's village, connected to
the fishing village by a field-road. The two societies were gradually
closer connected
when houses were built along the field-road.
.
The old main street Algade lies like a silent provinciel idyl. Each
house has a history. The house which is now museum had its present look
in the 1700s. Clasens Hotel was built about 1750. Today Clasens hotel is
a part of the city-museum. Sæby Watermill is also one of the attractions. The
watermill was built in 1710,while the living house is from 1850.
Sæby church is from the 1400s. When the kloster was founded in Sæby, the monks extended the church in order to make it
function as both parish church and kloster church. The church in Sæby
was once a part of the southern wing of Maristed kloster
Both
the town Sæby and the closeby manor Sæbygård belonged to the rich
bishopric Børglum in the 1460s. Bishop Jens Friis established a
Karmelit-kloster at the church in the fishing village. The kloster was
consecrated to Sct. Marie and was called Maristed. It kept this name
until after the reformation. Another Børglum-bishop Stygge Krumpen
provided the municipal rights for Sæby in 1524.
The harbour was the
life-nerve of the town, but at the same time it gave lots of problems
for the fishers, the merchants and the city management, because it was
filled with silt each spring, brought from the inside land - and in the autumn storms sand and seaweed filled the front of the river
mouth. In 1879 the conditions grew better when the river outlet was
led north
From the end of the 1800s Sæbys pretty situation and cosy small-town environment were discovered by Scandinavian artists and authors. Painters like
P.C.Skovgaard, Peter Mønsted and Chr. Zacho were inspired by the
romantic milieu. Several authors also took residence in the town. Gustav
Wied settled in a pension called Rolykke outside town - and here he got
married 1st of May 1896. Henrik Ibsen lived at the Hotel Harmonien at the
square, while Holger Drachmann and Herman Bang resided at Clasens Hotel.
In Herman Bang's novel "Sommerglæder" some citizens were very offensive
portrayed. They felt insulted and complained to the Danish author
society which rejected the complaint.
The mayor-daughter Adda Ravnkilde was a very young author who broke
the norms by writing about the problems of female authors in a
male-dominated society. She wrote three novels before she in 1883
committted suicide at the age of 21. Her tragic fate is said to have
inspired Henrik Ibsen to his play "The Lady from the Sea".
The artists met with the locals and other holiday guests for evening
feasts in Clasens garden, which lies close to the river. The cosy
atmosphere was delivered by the married couple from the hotel by hanging
coloured lanterns up and let the local symphonic orchestra play music.
Along the river is a park with a winding path from the harbour to the
watermill. Between the main street and the river is a beautiful little
park which was earlier the garden of the famous Clasens Hotel. In a
corner of the park is the instrument, Thomas Andersens "Earth bass". in
the lane.
A garden Nellemans Have is an old apple orchard from 1925. The garden holds more than 200 various crab apple trees.
At Voergård manor about 20 km southwest of Sæby is one of the finest collections of art and antiques, due to the farmer's son Ejnar Clausen, who when young married a stinking rich French count-widow and in 1955 brought her large family-collection to Voergård. There is public access to the main building and the park.
By the coast is the small idyllic fishing village Voerså with harbour in the river mouth. The inn got a royal privilege in 1730, and the old village-school has a little fishing museum.
The manor Sæbygård, which belonged to the bishopric of Børglum, is now a manor- museum.
It lies in the outskirt of Sæbygård forest.
photo Sæby: grethe bachmann, August 2014:
.JPG)
The howling of the wolf has been heard in the night in Jutland and an audio recording indicates that there were some puppies among the adults. DNA- analyzes show that there were 11 various male wolves in Denmark in 2014.
